| Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 10:24 pm I need to restore an austin seven ruby saloon. Is it possible for someone to provide me with the specifications for the body panels including the floor boards, mudguards front frame work door pillars, chassis anchor mounts etc. The body work is in bad shape and the dimensions would help.
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| Bill Sheehan (dapp-p-144-139-95-253.prem.tmns.net.au - 144.139.95.253) | Friday, July 27, 2007 - 09:19 am To Bill again - Sorry, I forgot to mention, if your RM is 1931 and the diff housing is stamped 1932 it obviously did not come originally with the car. My 1930 Ulster has a diff (5.25) stamped 1931, so it too was obviously a replacement. Cheers, Bill
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| Bill Sheehan (dapp-p-144-139-95-253.prem.tmns.net.au - 144.139.95.253) | Friday, July 27, 2007 - 09:12 am Bill - Assuming your diff housing is the drum-type, not a D-type with shortened axles, I doubt they continued to make these into '32, rather more perhaps a case of them using up old stock, as the 5.25 ratios were made mainly for Ulster Sports which were mainly fased out in late '31. Cheers, Bill
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| Bill Scholfield (host86-132-147-130.range86-132.btcentralplus.com - 86.132.147.130) | Thursday, July 26, 2007 - 06:51 pm I have a 1931 RM saloon. The rear axle is stamped 1932 and is a 5.25 to 1 ratio of early design with the bolt on torque tube. My question is did Austin continue to manufacture short wheelbase (6'3)rear axles with later ratio? Thanks, Bill
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| Friday, February 16, 2007 - 08:37 am Please advise the correct / best spark plugs for a 1926 Austin 7. Existing ones seems way too short and dont reach the bottom of the thread in the head.
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| Bill Sheehan (dapp-p-144-139-91-240.prem.tmns.net.au - 144.139.91.240) | Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 08:09 am As an addendum to the crankcase welding suggestion below, pure aluminium rods are the best to use, any silicone rods will make the weld flow better, but can give you problems. Ensure yo wash off all traces of flux with warm detergent/water then scrub with wire brush. Cheers, Bill
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| Bill Sheehan (dapp-p-144-139-95-189.prem.tmns.net.au - 144.139.95.189) | Monday, January 29, 2007 - 09:31 am Re torquing an Austin 7 engine - there may be figures for the studs into aluminium, but an easy guide is to use the correct-length spanner for the appropiate nut and do by hand without too much force. For the important bit - the cylinder head - ensure you are tightening in the correct order, it's vital. A standard head should not be tightened at over 18 ft. lbs. (Having said that, our racing boys with special cylinder heads and using high tensile bolts into the block, rather than studs & nuts, torque up to 80 ft. lbs!) Your choice. Cheers, Bill
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| Bill Sheehan (dapp-p-144-139-91-81.prem.tmns.net.au - 144.139.91.81) | Monday, January 29, 2007 - 09:09 am Re welding repairs to your crankcase - the problem is as much of concern in the cooling down gradually than the heating up. When I worked for the Caterpillar dealer they found that even with automatic, controlled submerged-arc welding on anything round, such as track rollers, placing them straight onto a cold floor would crack them in half immediately. The welded articles were placed for several hours in an asbestos powder bath, (which is a no go nowadays) to relieve the stresses. However you can buy (very expensive) non-asbestos blankets to do the same job. Although there's nothing wrong with tig welding, here's my suggestion for your alum. c/case. Heat up with Oxy torch along with LPG torch (doubling up makes it a lot quicker & gives you more chance of distributing rather than isolating the heat). When your spit sizzles on it, the heat's enough. Weld repairs with Oxy, probably pure alum. rods better, but some silicone rods may work. Immediately repairs are done, re-heat c/case for a good area around the repair with both torches, then using leather gauntlets wrap the c/case well & tightly with old blankets - as many as you can find - leave to cool down gradually. If your heating was right it will take about 5 hours to cool down completely. Good Luck. Bill
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| Al McGill (dialup-4.190.220.23.dial1.denver1.level3.net - 4.190.220.23) | Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 01:58 pm Looking for the torque spec. to rebuild a 1934 A7 Engine. Any one have them and can email them to me?
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| Monday, October 21, 2002 - 03:55 pm Looking for tips on lead accumulators, I found at your site a good article by Peter Booth. Being the patent attorney who helped to patent an invention for removing sulphatation of batteries, I think he would be interested in knowing that the sulphatation problem may be solved. See e.g. US patent No. 5,701,069 or Internet sight http://Macbat.com. An Australian patent exists, but I do not know if the following numbers are in the right format: 686633 or 6902094. The register on the net of Australian patents does not seem to cover back enough, but the International Application publication number is WO9428610 (PCT/SE94/00479). The method is to charge with very short pulses of extreme current intensity, creating gas. Between the pulses, times of a few seconds with no current. Strangely, this works. Please transmit to Mr. Booth. Bertil Grennberg
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| Monday, October 21, 2002 - 04:01 pm The article this refers to is at http://www.austin7club.org/tech_stuff2.htm#The Accumulator
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| Sunday, July 25, 2004 - 05:31 pm To Bertil Grennberg. But did you help the the real inventor, that is Bernt Wihk ? Isn't MacBat one of them who tricked this invention off Bernt ? And what happend to Bernt's : Sökt patent: SE510437 C Publikationsdatum: 1999-05-25 Uppfinnare: WIHK BERNT E L Sökande: WIHK BERNT E L (SE) Ansökningsnummer: SE19930001756 19930524 Prioritetsnummer: SE19930001756 19930524 IPC klassifikation: H02J7/04
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| Thursday, February 03, 2005 - 05:19 am Speedometers Wanted – Solutions for accurate speedometer readings. I’m aware Essex A7 Club have used Cycle computers, the sensors being fitted to the prop shaft joint. However, we have found in Cornwall that above 33 – 35 mph the reading starts to go down. And as we approach 60mph there is absolutely no correlation between the speedo and the actual road speed. Presumably the reed in the sensor cannot cope accurately with approx. 60 vibrations a second. (The magnet/sensor is functioning approx. 5 times faster than it would on a cycle). 60mph? Yes, with aluminium RK saloons, Pheonix Cranks, four speed boxes and a following wind we are finding it difficult to ensure we are within the speed limits, be it 30, 40, 50 or even 60mph. What experiences have other Forum contributors had with getting ‘accurate’ speedometers. Further thoughts in Cornwall are for using an electric tachometer and mark the face for third and fourth gear speeds. The intention is not to replace the existing speedometer, but to place the new and reliable dial in a discreet place. All comments, observations etc, welcome. Please note this item has been placed on other Forums as well, hopefully a precis of all the suggestions will appear in the Cornwall Clubs Focus magazine and on the Clubs web site technical pages. Sandy Croall, Cornwall and Essex A7 Clubs.
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| Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 04:49 am Hi - a friend is trying to restore a 1936 Austin and has no literature, etc. Wants to know if there was a water pump for the car? Know somebody we can ask in the Knoxville, TN. area? Thanks
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| Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 08:24 am Hi, rebuilding a ruby 1935 lap top crashed lost pics of the brakes and hand brake setup can any body provide pics . Cheers Al
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| Monday, November 13, 2006 - 11:11 am iam interested in a austin 7 in the USA any one have one reasonable thanks tom
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| Monday, November 13, 2006 - 11:14 am to joe martin i had a austin 10 1938 they do not have water pumps.
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| Phillip Slattery (218-214-18-249.people.net.au - 218.214.18.249) | Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 02:34 pm I have an Austin 7 Crankshaft forging (Henderson Springs PL) unmachined and a welded original crank. Anyone interested?
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| Tony Colson (c211-28-154-188.brasd1.vic.optusnet.com.au - 211.28.154.188) | Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 11:27 am Message to Phillip Slattery. I am interested in getting details of the A7 crankshaft forging you referred to in your posting of January 17th. Would you please contact me on 03 9584 1840 or email tonycolson@optusnet.com.au .
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| Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 11:22 am Hello list, I am hoping someone maybe able to offer some advice as we in Western Australia are having problems with welding some later model A7 aluminium crank cases. If one attempts to weld these crank cases (tig) the aluminium becomes so stressed it cracks again with severe conviction. So much so that one cannot overcome the ever on going cracking no matter what one does. We have tried to weld them cold, stich weld. and then preheat the case over night to about 200C. All the attempts are in vain!! If a reader does have some magical answer hidden up your sleeve I would be most grateful for any advice that can over come our dilemma. Regards and thanks in anticipation, Doug Baker Scarborough Western Australia
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